Backpacking: people, places and personalities.

Im writing this for 2 reasons. The first because Goa (as mentioned in my last post) is a place that makes the majority of us Brits, say stuff like 'that'll be lush/amazing/awesome' based on selctive images and over indulgent journalism written to sell itself and/or a destination. I don't think it's amazing. 

Secondly, because bumming around India means very few encounters with other Brits or even Westerners...or anyone who is not Indian, in fact. They don't do 'backpackers' or hostels, which is part of the reason. There's also that we are grain of rice in a rice factory in comparison to the population here!

..or just decent?

The most irritating people you meet when travelling are those that claim that everything they have seen and done commands the use of superlatives like 'amazing' 'epic' or 'off the hook' (or 10 at once). It absolutely makes me cringe!! I've seen some amazing stuff, but dont feel compelled to bleet on about it, loudly to others. It's not always what you see of course, that makes it memorable. 

That's the thing about backpacking the classic 'round the world ticket' route though, meeting shed loads of people doing the same thing as you, but with wildly different ways of experiencing it is part of the fun. One thing it does teach you mind, is that you absolutely have to travel with like minded people. 

My sister who hasn't blogged here yet (but will) lacks affinity with two groups you meet in particular who are prone to the above typicalities; surfers and divers. Collectively she can't stand them. The snow board set are similar. 8 years ago we did the mandatory Oz and NZ and have laughed ever since at a post on a wall by someone looking for accommodation, who simply stated 'I'm here to shred' (as in snow - board)

I went to Snip Spa in Panjim today. I was impressed, they've got it bang on and it's not up itself. £30 and the power of Kerastase and I feel decent! 

It was AMAZING ;)

Getting Goa

Day 5/6

The past couple of days have been spent in Goa, which is many things, but heres two.

1. A lot bigger than I imagined.

2. A name that will conjur up images quite a lot different to what i've found its reality to be. 

Panjim is one of the main cities, quite sweet with a Portuguese influence, narrow streets, painted buildings - albeit rather a lot less neatly finished or cared for than virtually anywhere in Portugal itself or even some places in Brazil.

We arrived by train and when we got to the centre wandered around in the dark for a few minutes until a nice helpful man wanted to help us find somewhere to stay!! We followed the man who uttered something about being 'just a social worker'! I've found in India this isn't a bad idea as they know where to head, even if they do clearly get a cut from the hotel/guesthouse you end up staying in. You feel more secure having somewhere in advance I guess, but you don't need to book ahead, not in low season at least. 

The best way to scope out places worth a visit or a stay are from

+Condé Nast Traveler and the local websites, in Goas case both Burp Goa and Whats up Goa have been good. I've also found once a guesthouse gets into the +Rough Guides or +Lonely Planet they maintain their standard. I've not found this to be as much the case anywhere else I've been. So these books are useful for accommodation in India too. 

Afonso guesthouse Panjim - with a frank and helpful owner!

The latest in the trepidations involving transport came this morning when it seemed I'd lost all knowledge or ability to ride a moped. This saw me swerving like a piss head along the street, every Indian aghast. More than likely a sight to behold!! Back to the buses then.
We headed to Baga - North Goa after venturing to the jaded Anjuna 'trance hotspot' (slightly further) last night. Which, by the way, saw us dropped off on a roadside with a 45 minute walk to 'the beach' which was actually lots of rocks. Although there may have been a beach just further down it was dark and I was past caring. Sometimes the pursuit becomes so much the focus that the product is irrelevant!

Beach between Calangute/Baga

        

So today is Eid, the end of Ramandan. The beaches of Calangute and Bagga were packed with Indians getting hammered head to toe (fully clothed in some cases) by the sea. In high season this would be replaced by westerners getting hammered, off drink and drugs. 

A couple of thoughts to finish:

- Nothing is where u think it will be and at least double the time you think it will take to do virtually everything. 

- Someone will always help...usually not for free. 

After a month in Northern India (Delhi, Leh, Jaisalmer, Jodphur, Agra) 2 years ago, I'm beginning to form comparisons. But I'm not there yet, so I'll leave that for another post.

Its about the journey not the destination...

Day 4/5

I've titled this post for a reason, not because I'm trying to be profound and whimsical!

The past couple of days have tried my patience in a few ways, not least vodafone texting me telling me id spent £42.50 on the Internet after 4 minutes use after telling me it would be £5 for the day.

I was told "these are our slogans" by an Indian train worker  - oh good.

We arrived at our second destination (Ganpatipule - Konkan Coast) after a decent night train journey. It became apparent this may have been an error and somewhere I wouldn't choose to go as far out of the way to visit, even in the high season. 

One night would be spent and then we were back to the bus-rickshaw-waiting-train-rickshaw routine. Sounds rubbish, but actually it's been good day. Between mini chai teas, pigeon conversations with Indians asking where i'm from (followed by a nod and a grin - the accepting silence that acknowledged there were no more words to exchange) and interruptions of 'chai, tea, cafe, samosa, peanuts' resonating down the train carriage, the hours have passed nicely. 

It's not just us who make us of the Lonely Planet guide!

The 300+km 6 hour train journey to Goa cost about a quid (my chai's cost between 3 and 6p) to sit in what should be unreserved 2nd class, but is in fact sleeper class, because I couldn't be chewed with walking the length of the 26 carriage train.

If there was one tip I would give anyone doing this, it would be, bring a cloth heavily scented with eucalyptus or something else equally as pungent but still bearable to breath in. I've smelt some of the most rancid things I've smelt in my life today and almost died of smoke inhalation on the train travelling through multiple never ending tunnels.