Cochin to Ooty and the Toy train

We have an Indian to thank for the debacle of the 21st of August. Leaving at 6.30am we would endure a 20 minute ferry, a 10 minute rickshaw, a 5.5 hour train in rancid class (on which I actually vomited in the toilet sink from the stench without even managing to face the toilet), then a seven hour service bus. I am not in the mood to sugar coat anything, largely due to this all being done post looking for flights home at 4am, due to feeling like a plague of rats was ruling my insides. I've never felt more like it could be the end for me. And I'm not exaggerating. There is no amount of positive thinking that would make this farce of a day better! 

The highlight, if you like, was 11 school boys gradually encroach on my space and invade the contents of my bag. That and getting to some accommodation with wifi and a hot shower. 

A lesson from this, is not one I will ever benefit from. But broadly, don't book things here too far in advance, but by the same token DO book in advance, routes that are super popular or special, I.e the Ooty-Metapalyam toy train - on the UNESCO World Heritage list. After all, this is the sole reason we came back up in the direction rather than doing the Met-ooty trip on our way down to Kerala from Hampi. There was clearly a better way to get here from Ernakulam to Ooty than going via Calicut on the coast. Hey ho!

The Toy train 

So we boarded the train at 2pm bound for an arrival time of 5.45. Its 5 cute carriages are lead by a steam train down the valley (and pushed on the way up) through tea plantations, towns, small stations, over bridges, through tunnels and in between enormous rock faces.

It is actually spectacular. It's only warm as well, not hot, not sweltering, warm with a nice breeze.

Now? A night train to Chennai. In first class. Which basically probably just means a few square feet more of space, a slightly less rancid toilet and some food that would ordinarily cost about 40p. This cynicism is born out of two things, the foremost being the reality (after 3 weeks here...and a month a few years ago) and to some degree the cold I've got that commands tomato soup that I cannot get.

Kerala: A jewel in India's crown?

If you come to Kerala you'll wind up in Cochin at least, probably Alleppy (houseboats) and possibly Varkala (beaches). 

I stayed at a place in Alleppy which I found in the Lonely Planet, and this time it came up trumps ...
Nest. A 6am arrival I was pleased was a pleasant as it was.

The boat offer came from the home stay owner. We didn't even see it before we found ourselves seemingly hooked in on the deal, as he was carrying fuel for the motor, collecting food for our trip. That said we were taking something of a risk. Even when an Indian says 'you won't be disappointed' - I'd usually still be dubious!

The next morning we got to the boat at 12pm, which is standard. Low and behold - it was great! One night on the boat with food and drink included has cost me £27.50 plus the extra £7 I've just spent to have some gigantic prawns so fresh I saw them alive, oh and £1.70 on a Kingfisher. By far the most costly day anyone is likely to have here. But it actually is a must do thing. There are much cheaper boats and no doubt some a bit more expensive. Ours is small (sleeps 4), goes through all the narrow waterways, uses solar for energy, doesn't hoy the shit into the water or munch on air con. 

The food was great, the room I stayed in was pitch black and boiling hot. The staff on the boat (three) were great. 

After the houseboat stuff we went to Fort Cochin, a couple of buses and a couple of hours got us here and we are staying in the first hostel type place. I'm going to be brief about this place (just because i cannot be arsed). Its little, has a nice walk along a coastal promenade, there's some nice bakery's and a lot of English and French people here. Not much to do really though. 

I spent an afternoon on Willingdon Island, across the water, at the Taj hotels spa. Spending £70 for the best 2 hour scrub and massage I've ever had.

Three main things to note at this stage:

1. I'm knackered

2. I'm sick of introducing my self and going though where we've been, where we are going and what I do at home...the the obligation to reply with the same questions.

3. Rick shaw drivers are mostly clueless, lazy good for nothing idiots. 

That is all.

Backpacking though the birthdays

Birthdays beyond 25 make you reflect on your life, your age, what you're doing and what you want to do. As I lie here at the front of a houseboat on the backwaters of Kerala, that reflection rings true.

I am lucky enough to have spent the past 6 birthdays in fantastic places. Lucky for several reasons. First off, being a teacher means I have my birthday off in the long holidays every year. As well as this I've had and have people in my life who have joined me to live out fantastic adventures. 

Here's a run down of birthdays since I returned from Australia-Fiji-New Zealand in 2007 aged 23 and graduated with my PGCE in 2008 aged 24.

2008 - Croatia

2009 - Brazil/Argentina

2010 - Central America 

2011 - India (Northern)

2012 - Indonesia 

2013 - India (Southern) 

24

Spent a month in Croatia, camping due to lack of funds after my PGCE. Went from Dubrovnik to Split, taking in Brac, Hvar, Zadar and some places I can't remember the name of.

25

A month in Brazil and Argentina, starting in Salvador, then to Rio, then round Sai Paulo across to Foz de Iguassu then into Argentina where a week in Mendoza included Malbec and steak and skiing!

Finished off in Burnos Aires.

26

A friendship defining trip around down through Central America (Nicaragua-Costa Rica-Panama. Rainforests, volcano boarding, star fish spotting Caribbean chill time. The day of my birthday was memorably spend in Bocas del Toro, Panama with a bunch of friends sailing to a tiny idyllic white sand, palm fridged island.  

27

First forray into India. Did the golden triangle type route, mainly by bus, and flew to Leh in the foothills of the Himalayas too. Spent my birthday is Jodphur and turned 27 on a stinking night bus. Later rode a canal thought the desert and slept under the stars. I would be back..

28

Indonesia with my Mummy and a special holiday within a holiday meeting my sister who came across from Perth. Spent my birthday in Bali and had the best time in Ubud and on the fabulous Gillie islands. Some seriously good holiday time. I'd go back in a heartbeat. 

29

Back to India and where I am now, today on my birthday! Sitting on the front of a houseboat on the backwaters of Kerala. 

One of the most spectacular landscapes in India. More on that in the next post!