Cochin to Ooty and the Toy train

We have an Indian to thank for the debacle of the 21st of August. Leaving at 6.30am we would endure a 20 minute ferry, a 10 minute rickshaw, a 5.5 hour train in rancid class (on which I actually vomited in the toilet sink from the stench without even managing to face the toilet), then a seven hour service bus. I am not in the mood to sugar coat anything, largely due to this all being done post looking for flights home at 4am, due to feeling like a plague of rats was ruling my insides. I've never felt more like it could be the end for me. And I'm not exaggerating. There is no amount of positive thinking that would make this farce of a day better! 

The highlight, if you like, was 11 school boys gradually encroach on my space and invade the contents of my bag. That and getting to some accommodation with wifi and a hot shower. 

A lesson from this, is not one I will ever benefit from. But broadly, don't book things here too far in advance, but by the same token DO book in advance, routes that are super popular or special, I.e the Ooty-Metapalyam toy train - on the UNESCO World Heritage list. After all, this is the sole reason we came back up in the direction rather than doing the Met-ooty trip on our way down to Kerala from Hampi. There was clearly a better way to get here from Ernakulam to Ooty than going via Calicut on the coast. Hey ho!

The Toy train 

So we boarded the train at 2pm bound for an arrival time of 5.45. Its 5 cute carriages are lead by a steam train down the valley (and pushed on the way up) through tea plantations, towns, small stations, over bridges, through tunnels and in between enormous rock faces.

It is actually spectacular. It's only warm as well, not hot, not sweltering, warm with a nice breeze.

Now? A night train to Chennai. In first class. Which basically probably just means a few square feet more of space, a slightly less rancid toilet and some food that would ordinarily cost about 40p. This cynicism is born out of two things, the foremost being the reality (after 3 weeks here...and a month a few years ago) and to some degree the cold I've got that commands tomato soup that I cannot get.

Kerala: A jewel in India's crown?

If you come to Kerala you'll wind up in Cochin at least, probably Alleppy (houseboats) and possibly Varkala (beaches). 

I stayed at a place in Alleppy which I found in the Lonely Planet, and this time it came up trumps ...
Nest. A 6am arrival I was pleased was a pleasant as it was.

The boat offer came from the home stay owner. We didn't even see it before we found ourselves seemingly hooked in on the deal, as he was carrying fuel for the motor, collecting food for our trip. That said we were taking something of a risk. Even when an Indian says 'you won't be disappointed' - I'd usually still be dubious!

The next morning we got to the boat at 12pm, which is standard. Low and behold - it was great! One night on the boat with food and drink included has cost me £27.50 plus the extra £7 I've just spent to have some gigantic prawns so fresh I saw them alive, oh and £1.70 on a Kingfisher. By far the most costly day anyone is likely to have here. But it actually is a must do thing. There are much cheaper boats and no doubt some a bit more expensive. Ours is small (sleeps 4), goes through all the narrow waterways, uses solar for energy, doesn't hoy the shit into the water or munch on air con. 

The food was great, the room I stayed in was pitch black and boiling hot. The staff on the boat (three) were great. 

After the houseboat stuff we went to Fort Cochin, a couple of buses and a couple of hours got us here and we are staying in the first hostel type place. I'm going to be brief about this place (just because i cannot be arsed). Its little, has a nice walk along a coastal promenade, there's some nice bakery's and a lot of English and French people here. Not much to do really though. 

I spent an afternoon on Willingdon Island, across the water, at the Taj hotels spa. Spending £70 for the best 2 hour scrub and massage I've ever had.

Three main things to note at this stage:

1. I'm knackered

2. I'm sick of introducing my self and going though where we've been, where we are going and what I do at home...the the obligation to reply with the same questions.

3. Rick shaw drivers are mostly clueless, lazy good for nothing idiots. 

That is all.

Backpacking though the birthdays

Birthdays beyond 25 make you reflect on your life, your age, what you're doing and what you want to do. As I lie here at the front of a houseboat on the backwaters of Kerala, that reflection rings true.

I am lucky enough to have spent the past 6 birthdays in fantastic places. Lucky for several reasons. First off, being a teacher means I have my birthday off in the long holidays every year. As well as this I've had and have people in my life who have joined me to live out fantastic adventures. 

Here's a run down of birthdays since I returned from Australia-Fiji-New Zealand in 2007 aged 23 and graduated with my PGCE in 2008 aged 24.

2008 - Croatia

2009 - Brazil/Argentina

2010 - Central America 

2011 - India (Northern)

2012 - Indonesia 

2013 - India (Southern) 

24

Spent a month in Croatia, camping due to lack of funds after my PGCE. Went from Dubrovnik to Split, taking in Brac, Hvar, Zadar and some places I can't remember the name of.

25

A month in Brazil and Argentina, starting in Salvador, then to Rio, then round Sai Paulo across to Foz de Iguassu then into Argentina where a week in Mendoza included Malbec and steak and skiing!

Finished off in Burnos Aires.

26

A friendship defining trip around down through Central America (Nicaragua-Costa Rica-Panama. Rainforests, volcano boarding, star fish spotting Caribbean chill time. The day of my birthday was memorably spend in Bocas del Toro, Panama with a bunch of friends sailing to a tiny idyllic white sand, palm fridged island.  

27

First forray into India. Did the golden triangle type route, mainly by bus, and flew to Leh in the foothills of the Himalayas too. Spent my birthday is Jodphur and turned 27 on a stinking night bus. Later rode a canal thought the desert and slept under the stars. I would be back..

28

Indonesia with my Mummy and a special holiday within a holiday meeting my sister who came across from Perth. Spent my birthday in Bali and had the best time in Ubud and on the fabulous Gillie islands. Some seriously good holiday time. I'd go back in a heartbeat. 

29

Back to India and where I am now, today on my birthday! Sitting on the front of a houseboat on the backwaters of Kerala. 

One of the most spectacular landscapes in India. More on that in the next post! 

It's the destination NOT the journey!!

Between this trip and the last in 2011, I've endured 3 night trains and 5 overnight buses. 

I always said the journey from Jaisalmer to Jodphur in Rajasthan was the worst bus experience of my life. Largely due to extremes in heat, space and noise. Extreme discomfort would sum it up. So I could say 'I'm never doing that again' and feel quite happy, I can exercise personal choice. Brilliant, never again.

 

How I've ended up doing the same again was down to a tourist agent on Hampi who assured me it would be better than said experience. In doing this he used two words, 'Volvo' and 'AC'. These words mean virtually nothing to me when I think of comfort, so why I agreed I'll never know. 

So you're sitting in your seat which kindly reclines to about 45 degrees. It's 6.30pm and the arrival time is 5.30am. You're given water which you feel reluctant to drink given that there's no toilet. The lights above don't work so doing anything that's not self illuminating is out of the question.

Even at your most knackered you'd have to be heavily sedated to come close to sleeping on these things. I can only describe the ride as similar to being on the back of a quad bike, doing top speed across a fell. It's horrific. And the air con? There is no living human being who would benefit or enjoy having freezing cold, dry, second hand air constantly pumped toward their face.

As if that wasn't bad enough, upon arrival we zombied to the train station and got on a train that would take an hour and a half to reach our final destination. This means you just get an unreserved ticket, sitting anywhere with no AC, more or less. Im not gonna lie, I've not long stopped gagging as I sit here because of the smell of urine and bleurgh. 

What can you or I learn from this though?! As I've said in a previous post 'it's about the journey not the destination'  well that's bollocks, some journeys are ALL about the destination, so what Kerala has to offer had better be worth it! 

My advice, which i don't heed myself at times would be, book trains in advance for seats in the best class (and even then, lower your expectations and then lower them again) and just avoid, totally and utterly avoid night buses unless you're a) skint and/or b) a goon. 

Mysore is mint!

Since I'm on a nightbus writing this (which I'll get onto later) I'm going to jump straight into my experiences of Mysore. It was my favourite place so far. The sights, sounds and smells were all especially good. We only had one night, but could have stayed 2 or 3 had it not been for this hellish bus journey that was already booked. The 15th is Independence Day in India, a public holiday and a day of celebration.

The palace is the main landmark in Mysore and is even better inside than it was outside. Except that is, for the bent guards who extract money off arguably stupid  people then allow then to use their cameras to take sneaky photos (which is 'strictly prohibited'). But like I said in a precious post, Indians will do anything for you particularly if you pay.  

The market was one of the most intense places I've ever been in, perhaps heightened by the sheer volume of people packing out its maze like pathways. I took several snaps of brightly coloured flowers, sweet smelling jasmine, wizened chillies, paint powder, veg and fruit, even hand crafted knives. That was until I became crushed by humanity and all I wanted to find was the exit!

We spent a few hours being motored around the cows bedroom to see some of Mysore's specialist trades. Namely sandalwood, furniture, bidis and silk. Seeing how incense was made - and making some. Watching the intricate inlays carved into rosewood. Watching a remarkably healthy looking man roll and fill tobacco leaves into what they call bidis. He smoked 60 a day himself. It was a wicked few hours and insight into life of working Indians in this Karnatarkan city. 

At night the streets are fun. Carts and street vendors fill a short stretch of the road near a busy roundabout, where people devour all manner of fried up, chopped up, palm leaf plated fare. 

I liked that it was busy, but not over bearing and I saw some of the most interesting and unique things I've seen yet in India. 

Holy Hampi!

To get to HAMPI you arrive by train (7 hours from Goa) into Hospet. A bumpy 15 minute rickshaw ride and you're in tiny Hampi where you'll see the Virupaksha temple. Our rickshaw driver reminded me instantly of Sid from Ice Age, which I think made me like him more. We were dropped off at Rocky's  Guesthouse and that's where we stayed for 2 nights. My sister who was here 4 years ago simply said "Hampi is cool, it's like bedrock." A bedrock where there is no alcohol or meat.

 

So you're in Hampi, where on arrival you need to register as a visitor at the Police station. Very quickly the below (see pic) will happen and you will have said your own name and shaken people's hands more times in 20 minutes than you would in a typical year!!

It's hilarious. And for the record, I was bought my corn on the cob for the 10 photographs they took!

HAMPI has lots of little shops in the main bazaar, as well as cafe/restaurants. The surrounding area is punctuated with lots of ruins and temples all of Hindu significance. Sid took us around the area on his rickshaw for a few hours. When at the temples I spent most of the time having my photo taken with children and taking photos of children. They were that giddy at looking at them afterwards it caused more and more to want their photo taken too! After a short lesson in greetings, the group of three left us saying 'bye friend' after correcting their greeting 'hello auntie'.

It is a unique, relaxed place, I'd definitely recommend a stop here. 

http://trackmytour.com/wg46n

India 10 days in: costs and route

10 days into the trip we've been through 3 states (Maharastra, Goa, Karnataka) and spent approx £165 (minus the spa time!) so about £17 per day.

Summary of costs:

Cheapest accom: £3.50

Most expensive: £13

Cheapest meal (including drinks): £1.20

Most expensive: £11.50 

Least spent on single trip: 25p bus. Rickshaws from 60p to £3.50

Most spent on single trip: 2A/C train Goa to Hospet (Hampi) £10.

I guessed you could travel the same sort of route as us for as little as £8 per day if you ate in cheap places, (which isn't hard or that bad) travelled in unreserved second class (which would be hot and painful) and stayed in cell like digs (who really wants to do that?!). 

At the opposite end of the scale, virtually everywhere you go there's somewhere to stay that'll set you back £150+ per night. Nilaya Hermitage, Goa = £ per night, for example!!!

The route so far:

1 - 10 Mumbai - Konkan Coast - Goa - Hampi.

11 - 14 Mysore - Kochi

This is a screen shot image from the free Track my Tour app. You can track mine from this link http://trackmytour.com/wg46n 

Days 11 - 13

We have a 12 hour night train and a 12 hour night bus coming up, which I'm not that enthused about. I am assured the bus is a lot better than the near hell I endured on a night bus in Rajasthan (North India) two years ago. 

On the train we travel by what they call 2AC, or second class with air con. This basically means you have 2 seats come beds one above the other in a compartment that sleeps four. You can get 3AC which is 3 up on either side. First class, which I haven't ever booked in time to travel in, is 2 and 4 berth compartments with locking doors and meals included.

Backpacking: people, places and personalities.

Im writing this for 2 reasons. The first because Goa (as mentioned in my last post) is a place that makes the majority of us Brits, say stuff like 'that'll be lush/amazing/awesome' based on selctive images and over indulgent journalism written to sell itself and/or a destination. I don't think it's amazing. 

Secondly, because bumming around India means very few encounters with other Brits or even Westerners...or anyone who is not Indian, in fact. They don't do 'backpackers' or hostels, which is part of the reason. There's also that we are grain of rice in a rice factory in comparison to the population here!

..or just decent?

The most irritating people you meet when travelling are those that claim that everything they have seen and done commands the use of superlatives like 'amazing' 'epic' or 'off the hook' (or 10 at once). It absolutely makes me cringe!! I've seen some amazing stuff, but dont feel compelled to bleet on about it, loudly to others. It's not always what you see of course, that makes it memorable. 

That's the thing about backpacking the classic 'round the world ticket' route though, meeting shed loads of people doing the same thing as you, but with wildly different ways of experiencing it is part of the fun. One thing it does teach you mind, is that you absolutely have to travel with like minded people. 

My sister who hasn't blogged here yet (but will) lacks affinity with two groups you meet in particular who are prone to the above typicalities; surfers and divers. Collectively she can't stand them. The snow board set are similar. 8 years ago we did the mandatory Oz and NZ and have laughed ever since at a post on a wall by someone looking for accommodation, who simply stated 'I'm here to shred' (as in snow - board)

I went to Snip Spa in Panjim today. I was impressed, they've got it bang on and it's not up itself. £30 and the power of Kerastase and I feel decent! 

It was AMAZING ;)

Getting Goa

Day 5/6

The past couple of days have been spent in Goa, which is many things, but heres two.

1. A lot bigger than I imagined.

2. A name that will conjur up images quite a lot different to what i've found its reality to be. 

Panjim is one of the main cities, quite sweet with a Portuguese influence, narrow streets, painted buildings - albeit rather a lot less neatly finished or cared for than virtually anywhere in Portugal itself or even some places in Brazil.

We arrived by train and when we got to the centre wandered around in the dark for a few minutes until a nice helpful man wanted to help us find somewhere to stay!! We followed the man who uttered something about being 'just a social worker'! I've found in India this isn't a bad idea as they know where to head, even if they do clearly get a cut from the hotel/guesthouse you end up staying in. You feel more secure having somewhere in advance I guess, but you don't need to book ahead, not in low season at least. 

The best way to scope out places worth a visit or a stay are from

+Condé Nast Traveler and the local websites, in Goas case both Burp Goa and Whats up Goa have been good. I've also found once a guesthouse gets into the +Rough Guides or +Lonely Planet they maintain their standard. I've not found this to be as much the case anywhere else I've been. So these books are useful for accommodation in India too. 

Afonso guesthouse Panjim - with a frank and helpful owner!

The latest in the trepidations involving transport came this morning when it seemed I'd lost all knowledge or ability to ride a moped. This saw me swerving like a piss head along the street, every Indian aghast. More than likely a sight to behold!! Back to the buses then.
We headed to Baga - North Goa after venturing to the jaded Anjuna 'trance hotspot' (slightly further) last night. Which, by the way, saw us dropped off on a roadside with a 45 minute walk to 'the beach' which was actually lots of rocks. Although there may have been a beach just further down it was dark and I was past caring. Sometimes the pursuit becomes so much the focus that the product is irrelevant!

Beach between Calangute/Baga

        

So today is Eid, the end of Ramandan. The beaches of Calangute and Bagga were packed with Indians getting hammered head to toe (fully clothed in some cases) by the sea. In high season this would be replaced by westerners getting hammered, off drink and drugs. 

A couple of thoughts to finish:

- Nothing is where u think it will be and at least double the time you think it will take to do virtually everything. 

- Someone will always help...usually not for free. 

After a month in Northern India (Delhi, Leh, Jaisalmer, Jodphur, Agra) 2 years ago, I'm beginning to form comparisons. But I'm not there yet, so I'll leave that for another post.

I am India!

As I lay on the to bunk of the night train on the 3rd night, I reflected on why I do this type (budget/no itinerary/backpacking) of travelling year in, year out. There are times I wonder if I'm enjoying it and for the last 3 years, anyway, I've said (although unconvinced) 'this is the last time i'll do a trip like this'...and then do it again often less than 6 months later, sometimes twice a year! Why don't I just have a nice, easy, mid range international package holiday for 2 weeks instead?

Dunno. But i've concluded, if I was to categorise myself into a generalised stereotype of a country, I'd be India. Whether I liked it or not. 

I love all the usual trappings of a 20 something girl, comfort (The White Company linen), elaborate cocktails (Lychee Martinis), fashion, spas, Jo Malone perfume, amazing food, expensive handbags...bla bla, and love nothing more than the idea of a long white beach, a hammock and a coconut. But, I feel at ease amongst chaos, am relatively unphased by smells/dirt and intimidated by very little (maybe not a good thing, ok). I don't waste time, like a fast pace and LOVE a bargain! 

That's pretty much India to me. It has everything, many sides and idiosyncrasies. None of which will ever exist without the other.

Its about the journey not the destination...

Day 4/5

I've titled this post for a reason, not because I'm trying to be profound and whimsical!

The past couple of days have tried my patience in a few ways, not least vodafone texting me telling me id spent £42.50 on the Internet after 4 minutes use after telling me it would be £5 for the day.

I was told "these are our slogans" by an Indian train worker  - oh good.

We arrived at our second destination (Ganpatipule - Konkan Coast) after a decent night train journey. It became apparent this may have been an error and somewhere I wouldn't choose to go as far out of the way to visit, even in the high season. 

One night would be spent and then we were back to the bus-rickshaw-waiting-train-rickshaw routine. Sounds rubbish, but actually it's been good day. Between mini chai teas, pigeon conversations with Indians asking where i'm from (followed by a nod and a grin - the accepting silence that acknowledged there were no more words to exchange) and interruptions of 'chai, tea, cafe, samosa, peanuts' resonating down the train carriage, the hours have passed nicely. 

It's not just us who make us of the Lonely Planet guide!

The 300+km 6 hour train journey to Goa cost about a quid (my chai's cost between 3 and 6p) to sit in what should be unreserved 2nd class, but is in fact sleeper class, because I couldn't be chewed with walking the length of the 26 carriage train.

If there was one tip I would give anyone doing this, it would be, bring a cloth heavily scented with eucalyptus or something else equally as pungent but still bearable to breath in. I've smelt some of the most rancid things I've smelt in my life today and almost died of smoke inhalation on the train travelling through multiple never ending tunnels. 

Behind the Beautiful Forevers

Day 3

The Pulitzer Prize winning tale of 'life, death and hope in a Mumbai slum' has been sitting on my bedside table for a number of months. A cliche perhaps, but I'm reading it now and I'm totally hooked.   

The author Katherine Boo worked relentlessly to write the book in such a way that not only is the story compelling, it gives a really good insight into how one of 20 odd different slums, inhabited by 55% of Mumbai's population, work. The book is based on life in Annawadi, a slum on the airport boundary.

Today I visited Dharavi. Flanked by the railway line Asia's biggest slum is in South Mumbai. I've been to Rio and some of its favelas and at the time found it was one of the best experiences I've ever had travelling. So I was curious about the Indian slums in my book and what they were like 'in real life'.

One thing I now know is that Dharavi is unique in the sense that is turns over millions of dollars a year for the Indian economy. There was phenomenal amounts of recycling going on (mainly plastic) out of rubbish not only from the rag pickers and businesses of Mumbai, but that sent to India from China and USA. 

There was pottery making, leather tanning, dying, baking, machine making, garment making, soap making, and recycling of every last thing recyclable on the planet. The slum was so big, one end sorted the plastic, melted, dyed it and the other end bought it and sold it on. Hundreds of businesses exist and it was mind blowing to see. It was like a town all of its own within the city. 

The guide was part of a small business itself called Mystical Mumbai Tours, it cost 650 rupees (approx £7) with about half going back into small projects within Dharavi. It was well worth having a guide, I listened carefully to what he said,and silently questioned his bias and positionality (both as a tour guide and a resident of Dhavari himself) when it came to the way he described life and progress in Indian slum life. There was only 2 others with us, some numb nut Aussies asking daft questions like 'how hygienic are these to eat' about kiln baked pastries and 'is this where Slumdog Millionaire was filmed..' But I wasn't at my most tolerant today. Which isn't very, anyway! 

The first and last meal of the day was dhal and roti in preparation for the night train. Dear God

Oh, my tip would be spend at least 4 days in Mumbai, in hindsight I would have.

Mumbai Madness

Here goes 25 days in Southern India. 

After an upgrade with BA to world traveller plus and being assured this would leave me feeling 'more refreshed' on arrival. It didn't. Anyway. 

The afternoon involved napping on an extremely hard bed (at the 'Travellers Inn' in Fort, Mumbai). Oh, and having my senses assaulted. Without doubt the hardest thing about embarking on a trip beginning in a massive city like this is orientating yourself and being ten miles out of your comfort zone, and I'm not precious!! 

It's crazily overwhelming and hard work. You have to get used to the immediate area and widen your radius as you go. No longer as reliant on the +Lonely Planet 
after 8 years of their use, its always a start. Last night we ate in Mahesh in the Fort area of Mumbai, which can only be described at a frozen smoke box. It wreaked of incense which hung in the air like dry ice. Bizarre. The food was ok though.

Salted lime soda and chai. Two things I LOVE about India and they're both hard to get that wrong. Bonus!

I've been reading the Mumbai Boss blog, www.mumbaiboss.com and on its recommendation have ended up in A place called the Woodside Inn (www.woodsideinn.in) in Colaba. They're beer and burger festival was pretty decent! Although I had a salted lime soda with mine!

Back to sightseeing, The Gateway of India was next.

In 2007 there were terrorist attacks on a hotel next to hear which mean this area is surrounded by security - by Indian standards, i.e. fencing and knackered looking bomb detectors to walk thru with 4 staff to 5000 people streaming back and forth.

I had an excellent chai today by the way. It was 75p so not the cheapest! (Mocha bar, Churchgate)

After Mumbai I'm headed down the Konkan coast for some beach time come monsoon or shine!